MONTREAL IS A delightful city to visit, partly because it has little that a visitor “must” see. There are no great museums or sights, and most of the points of interest can be covered in a half-day sightseeing tour.
This means the visitor is free to enjoy the city on his or her own and at a leisurely pace. Much of Montreal’s charm lies in its physical setting, which is similar to that of San Francisco, with hills sloping down to a large body of water in Montreal’s case, the St. Lawrence River.
The best way to see Montreal is also the cheapest – walking through its various neighborhoods, admiring the Victorian architecture with its characteristic outside stairs, stopping to rest at a corner cafe or one of the budget restaurants that can be found in almost every section of the city.
Dining out is a major pastime for many Montrealers, and for this reason restaurants are numerous. New ones are opening all the time, and most are worth a try.
Because of intense competition for the diner’s dollar, Montreal is the kind of city where you can walk into almost any restaurant and be assured of a decent meal. Some of the newer and lower-priced do not have liquor licences, but many will provide glasses and a corkscrew if you bring your own wine.
Drinkable Quebec-bottled wine is available at reasonable prices in any corner grocery store – try red or white Cuvee des Patriotes. Eating at an unlicenced restaurant often means a saving on the price of wine, since there is no markup on wine you bring yourself. But carry your wine discreetly in a paper bag and ask the waiter’s permission before you open it.
Conveniently for visitors, many good budget restaurants are located in Montreal’s compact downtown. Almost every type of cuisine is available.
If you can’t decide what you’re in the mood for, walk along Prince Arthur Street east of McGill University. This is the new trendy street for Quebecois artists and students, and it is lined with low-priced restaurants – Greek, Vietnamese, Italian, French. A student favorite is the Mazurka, where Polish fare is available in a smoky atmosphere but at incredibly low prices, starting at about $3 for a complete meal. Check the prices outside other restaurants on this street – they’re rising fast as the area becomes more fashionable.
Farther east on St. Denis, the heart of French night life, try the Cote a Baron, a bright, pleasant French restaurant where dinner for two with a carafe of wine is as low as $20. For lunch or a light weekend brunch, try the Funambule on St. Denis, where cafe au lait, croissants and fruit salad is about $3.
On the west side of downtown, a local favorite is the Pique Assiette, which offers authentic Tandoori Indian food. For a light meal, the quarter Tandoori chicken is delicious and only $2.95. Near McGill and the downtown stores, Le Caveau is a charming restaurant in French bistro style where a full meal is as little as $4.
In Old Montreal, try Stash’s Cafe for good Central European cooking and yummy pastry. For seafood, try Chez Delmo with its lovely long oak bar, also in Old Montreal. Reservations are advised at Delmo’s. For a snack in the early morning, Ben’s Delicatessen downtown is an institution. It stays open until 5 a.m., serving good blintzes and smoked meat.
Low-priced accommodations are not as plentiful as low-priced restaurants. Most of the large hotels are too expensive for the budget traveller. However, the Sheraton Mount Royal, the Constellation or the venerable Windsor (where Oscar Wilde stayed) all offer double rooms at about $60, which might be possible as a splurge. All are downtown.
The Hotel de l’Institut on St. Denis, a modern highrise, is run as a hotel training school by the Quebec Government, with rooms at $31 single, $41 double. Try the restaurant here, too.
Toward the west side of downtown, the Chateau Versailles was converted from grey stone townhouses into a European-style hotel – many rooms have chandeliers and fireplaces. Rates run from $36 single to $60 double.
Cheaper lodgings are available in tourist rooms, often with shared bath. Try the Maison Peel, Maison Le Crescent or Maison Ambrose in the central section, with rates from $14 single to $40 double. Farther east near St. Denis and the bus station, the Hotel Royal Roussilon, Maison Le Breton and Hotellerie Bon Accueil all offer rooms in the $20 to $30 range.
If you prefer to be where the action is in Old Montreal, try the Hotel Nelson or Hotel Iroquois right on Place Jacques Cartier, but don’t expect to go to sleep early.
Montreal’s public transportation system is extremely efficient, with one of the best subways in the world. Cash fare is 60 cents, but you can buy 15 tickets for $7. Anyone planning a lengthy visit to Montreal should invest in a Metropass, $16 for unlimited travel by bus and subway for a month.
